This year I made 30, exactly the half of my father’s age. The best gift ever, was this drawing of me as a wayang on a surf board from Kim (she’s also a student in Solo but at arts), thanks again Kim. A short message: surf through life.
Until now I did several sports: sky, bmx, snowboard, longboard and surf. All individual, I don’t like team sports, but I like to ride with others, have fun and why not challenge ourselves. I am not a pro at anything but I like to ride, let it go – feel the flow. Snowboard super nice, if there is also powder much better, add some trees or even a forest to increase difficulty and I am a happy man. Longboard, I like the pintail (classic), because I like to cruise, a bit of downhill also, just to spice things up. I always wanted to try surf, you know you slide on land, on snow and the last frontier on water. Surf for me it’s a different level, you can’t predict nothing, because the wave is constantly changing. The idea is to be there in the present, feel the flow and react gently. It’s not like snowboard or longboard, where in 70% of situations you can see the obstacles before and avoid them, the other 30% (something hidden in the snow or a small rock on the tarmac) are “gifts” from god. Surf is 100% about the present moment, about my ability to be there and feel how the wave is growing under me and change shape and the only thing that I can do is to feel it, not predicting it, just feel it and react gently.
And the other great thing about surfing is that you get to see the sunsets from the water. Surf through life, yeah?
I share some prices with you, so you have an idea on how much this cost me, because I am not a rich guy, or maybe I am but not from materialistic point of view. From Solo to Pacitan 3 hours by motorcycle, one way, the gas is around 4 dollars, the view is breath taking and free of charge. To stay there in an homestay 200m from the beach, in the shared bedroom, which is a terrace with 6 mattress, it cost me 3 dollars, nice and good conversation with travelers all over the world free of charge. Lately I made some local friends there, surfers, so if I am lucky I just sleep at their places. When I surf I have a big appetite also, another 2 dollars for a meal, usually I go in the fish market buy some fish already cooked, add some white rice and sambal (spicy sauce) and I am good. The board renting another 5 dollars a day, waves, sunsets and lot of fun guarantee and free of charge. One more thing if you go for surfing put some sunscreen, a lot, and don’t forget to drink enough water, you can pee in the sea later the fish are doing it anyway.
By the way the logo for Lost in east project was inspired from the wayang on the surf board drawing, thanks a lot Kim.
If anything resonates within you, if anything about this gives you goosebumps, follow and suport this project, trevolta crowd funding camapaign here http://www.trevolta.com/travels/lost-in-east-24407, or just donate directly